Iowa musings

After spending ten days in Iowa we decided not to run in the next primary but we did get to know a lot more about Iowa. We didn't see any locals that weren't Caucasian and a lot of the small towns are still rooted in their German, Danish or Dutch cultures. 

We saw a lot of signs saying " The churches of ----- welcome you and then about 4 different Christian churches were named underneath. A lot of the town social life is through the churches so they are the main parts of the community. On the other hand there were probably more bars than churches in each town. Another vibrant part of the social scene. 

We saw help wanted signs in windows of restaurants and shops in almost every town. We also saw a lot of local businesses for sale. The farmers say that most of their kids don't want to farm so the farms are becoming bigger and more corporate. Farmers are retiring into the towns and young people are looking for jobs in bigger cities. A lot come home, though, when they are ready to retire. Some towns are offering free lots to families if they will build a house and stay. Some towns are offering finder's fees if you get a physician to move to their community. Some of these things must be working because a lot of the rural areas are showing growth. 

In general the people we've met are happy and interested in conversation. The air is fresh except near the pig farms and food is plentiful. 

Bellevue, Iowa

We finished RAGBRAI yesterday and have better service now so I can blog again. RAGBRAI added 480 miles and we are now over 1000 for the trip. We spent last night in the Guttenberg Motel because we lucked out and called right after they had a cancellation. This morning we headed back down the river but it was not all downhill! We had about 20 hills that were each about a mile up and a mile down. The area is really beautiful. So much green and terrific views of the river. And we were often going slow enough to enjoy them! We had Sunday brunch at the oldest restaurant and bar in Iowa. It was not a New York brunch but it got us over the next few hills. 

We were tired when we got to Belleville after 64 miles so we looked for a place to stay. We found Mont Rest, a B&B with a fantastic view of the River and a great cook for the owner. Chris talked us into leftover coq au vin instead of heading to a local restaurant and it was a wise choice. The conversation was also welcome as we were able to talk politics without having to worry about offending her-- not all that common in Iowa. 

This B&B is up on a hill and we have the tower room with our own hot tub on the roof with a great view of the Mississippi. Are you jealous, Erika?

Mason City

Iowa has been great so far. 46 miles on Sunday, 108 yesterday and only 40 today. We're in the northern part of the state and we've been seeing lots of trees and lakes as well as the usual cornfields and soy beans. The people are so happy to welcome us to their towns. We've had some great pork and ribeye sandwiches as well as pie, ice cream, watermelon, bananas and fresh squeezed limeade.

 We're enjoying the short day in the shady city park across from a Frank Lloyd Wright hotel. 

Okoboji

For some reason the people in the next tent decided to get up at 4:00AM and weren't all that quiet. By 5:00 we gave up and got out of our tent only to find 50 people in line for the kybos. (Iowa's unique word for the port a potty) After a cup of watery coffee we hit the road around 6:30 with thousands of other riders. The 68 mile day turned out to be 76 but we still got into camp by 1:30.  There are a lot more men on this ride than there are women. When we rolled into camp the men's shower line was about an hour long and I was able to just walk right in and shower. Payback! 

  Along the way we enjoyed a lot of great Iowa food and hospitality. For my daily pie I had a slice of rhubarb. It came with a crumble topping. I've never had it that way before but I will be searching for another slice.

 This was a beautiful day. Not too hot yet and when we headed north for a couple miles we were coasting at almost 20 mph with the tail winds. 

And this week we aren't carrying our own packs. I can really tell the difference!

RAGBRAI with Pork Belly Ventures

Prairie du Chien was a great town for final RAGBRAI preparations. We stayed in a hotel with bedtime cookies and a full breakfast, including made to order omelets. We washed all our clothes and made a stop at a hardware store to replace a screw that had rattled loose from my carrier. 

In the morning we rode the final 25 miles to Guttenberg, Iowa to catch our transport to the west side of the state. Fortunately we left early because we had to climb a few long, steep hills to get there. We passed right by Pikes Peak. It was named after Zebulon because he had spent time in this area but it's not quite as high as the one in Colorado. 

We're in Rock Valley now enjoying the music, beer and bike expo. We've met up with JC, our high school friend, and Craig's brother Gary and nephew Greg.

It will be fun sharing the next 420 miles with them as we ride back to Guttenberg this week. 

Prairie du Chien

Last night we were able to find a dry camping spot. Most of the park was still flooded but one of the RV sections was high enough. We were a little cold at night but that's probably the last time for that. Mosquitos aren't hatched yet because the water is still moving fast and the gnats don't bite so it was quite pleasant. 

This section of the river is very wide due to all the navigational locks and dams. It's also a wildlife refuge for migrating birds. We've seen a bald eagle, a white pelican and a couple herons but we've been told that winter and spring bring thousands of these birds through the area.

 The rolling hills are getting a little bigger and when we cross into Iowa tomorrow they'll probably be steeper. We're enjoying a hotel with laundry today because we're heading to RAGBRAI tomorrow and a full week of camping. We'll only ride 23 miles to Guttenberg, IA in the morning and then we'll catch the shuttle to the west side only to spend the whole week riding right back to Guttenberg. (Along with 10,000 other riders)

 We met 3 different groups of riders yesterday. One doing a shortened version  of the MRT and 2 going east west. The largest group was an organized tour with martching jerseys and a truck to carry their bags. 

 So far we rode about 550 miles so we're  about 1/4 of the way down the Mississippi.

LaCrosse

We entered WI yesterday and had a few hills as we passed by Lake Pepin but it's been flat since then. We're also following RR tracks with over 40 trains a day passing through. We've seen at least 4 lines carrying oil, scrap, coal, sand and piggybacks. Sheldon would love it. 

We are following the Great River Trail along highway 35. We've also had the chance to take a lot of bike trails including a 20 mile bike trail through marshlands and wildlife refuges. There have been lots of historical signs to read telling us about industry, history, vegetation, wildlife, etc. I won't spoil it by telling everything in case you plan to visit the area yourself. 

We stopped in Alma to have a wonderful latte and apfel kuchen. We also had a great conversation with a few of the ladies and learned some more about the region. They are still waiting for the flood waters to fully recede.

 We ended the day with 83 miles and are planning on only 40 today. We're in LaCrosse now enjoying lunch and buying supplies. We'll be camping a little ways down the road tonight.